PROBLEM: Driving Lights or Lightbar stopped triggering from high beam after fitting LED headlight conversion kit.
CAUSE: We see this occurring with Toyota's and Mazda/Ford which mostly have negatively switched headlights. The problem stems from the way in which the high beam trigger has been taken up by the original installer who wired your driving lights. A common mistake installers make with negatively switched systems is that they tap into what they assumed was the high beam hot wire (negative switched systems have no hot-wire), when in fact it was minor current bleeding through the low beam filament. Now that the low beam filament is gone and replaced with LED, the spotlights do not work.
In order to get a reliable trigger from a negatively switched wiring system, one must take two wires from the headlight, one from the common supply for low and high beam and one from the high beam terminal that will be grounded via the high beam dip switch.
In order to get a reliable trigger from a negatively switched wiring system, one must take two wires from the headlight, one from the common supply for low and high beam and one from the high beam terminal that will be grounded via the high beam dip switch.
SOLUTION(S)
1) Consult an auto-electrician who is well versed in properly wiring to high beam in line with the above.
2) You could add a resistor, or use our H4 CANBUS Decoder: We don't recommend this as the solution as it is basically like applying a band-aid fix to what is otherwise a fundamental problem.
1) Consult an auto-electrician who is well versed in properly wiring to high beam in line with the above.
2) You could add a resistor, or use our H4 CANBUS Decoder: We don't recommend this as the solution as it is basically like applying a band-aid fix to what is otherwise a fundamental problem.
3) Replace your wiring harness with our Plug & Play Smart Wiring